Hiking the ends of Malta

Hiking Marfa Ridge with Comino and Gozo Islands in the background.

This past week, Andrew and I were able to get to the ends of Malta.  We hiked the Marfa Ridge area on St. Joseph’s Holiday (Wednesday March 19).  Marfa Ridge is composed of a limestone slope that rises gently from the sea to the north end of Malta but drops steeply and dramatically on all others faces.  From the airplane, Marfa Ridge looked like it was a separate island but on closer inspection it is connected to Malta by a narrow neck of land. The real islands, Comino and Gozo were within view during our walk.   The hiking terrain was like what you would expect on the moon-uneven and crater like.   Flowers were popping up all along the rocks.  The yellow daisies were the same flower that marks spring in San Diego.

We thought on a religious holiday, the primarily Catholic Maltese would be attending church services.  We were wrong.  The Maltese took advantage of the midweek holiday to  picnic under the acacia trees  or pull up to their beach-side holiday hut (a garage-like structure with couch, dining table-often carried out to the drive, barbeque and even a TV in some) for a family meal. That left us  in stop and go traffic on the way up and back.  

 

Looking down the steep cliffs

Thank goodness we weren’t driving and were able to enjoy sitting and looking at the sea through the bus window. That was on the way up.  On the way back, it was another story.  The bus was overcrowded but we managed to get on with a standing position.  As Andrew described it, people get on in currents and he got eddied behind the bus driver. I just kept flowing down the bus.  It felt like I was surfing down the steep roads in a sea of people.  After the 5 mile walk, my arms got a good  workout  hanging on to the plastic handles above my head.  Eventually, I was able to grab a seat.  It was one of our more exciting rides—a woman was kicked off with her little dog by the supervisor, the driver was yelling in his phone that he could not go back as he was full up, a small older man was barely able to hang on and stand up at the same time—all entertaining bus drama for an hour ride.

Andrew leading the way.

We hiked with the Malta Geographical Society (established in 1943) on Saturday.  Of the 50 walkers, most were a little bit older than us.  The group was a mixture of ex-pats (England and Scotland) and  Maltese.  On the way to Marsaxlokk, our meeting spot, we (Andrew, Debby-from Iowa and me) stopped to view the Ghar Dalam ( which means cave of darkness) Cave.  After dodging the swarming wasps at the cave entrance, we entered a chamber 30 ft tall.   Inside the cave, skeletons 500,000 years old of dwarf hippos and elephants were found. As the animals are similar to European species, Malta’s land connection to Italy not northern Africa is supported. Pottery and Neanderthal bull teeth, the earliest signs of human occupation on Malta dating back to 5200BC were also found in the cave.

 

In the Ghar Dalum Cave.

Catching the bus is not always an easy task. Despite posted times, on line schedules and GPS monitoring systems that digitally display expected arrivals of buses at the stops, there is an element of luck of catching a specific bus.  We got lucky and caught the bus outside the Cave Museum and continued  on to Marsaxlokk, a quaint active fishing village.  

 

Marsaxlokk  Bay

The buildings around Marsaxlokk Bay are just 3-4 stories high.  Many of the colorful fishing boats, called luzzu, dotted the bay. Fisher people (women were helping too) were tending to their nets.   The quay was lined with cafes offering up fresh fish soup and fish dishes.    Market stalls were also set up along the quay to sell souvenirs—lace work primarily but t-shirts, bags and beach towels too.  It reminded me of the open air markets in the Caribbean.  On the 3 hour hike, we headed out to Delimara Lighthouse, meandered along the cliffs past St. Peter's Pool and returned to Marsaxlokk.  We caught the bus home and in contrast to the last hike, were about the only folks on board. 

Debby and me headed up to the Lighthouse.

View  on the way up.

Another view on the way up.

Andrew looking back at Marsaxlokk.

St. Peter's Pool

The southern cliffs of Malta

 

An island of "Talks"

Valletta on approach to the airport.

Since arriving in Malta, my days often begin with a run around the fortress walls of Valletta.  I often stop and snap pictures with my iphone. The iphone is locked so it can’t be used for talking but I love having it in my pocket for quick pics.  I return to the flat without fear that I won’t be able to turn the key now.  On my first run, I could not get the key to turn and needed to find a local to turn the key for me.  Yes, I felt stupid but as I would have had to wait 6 hours for Andrew to return from work, it seemed prudent.  I then get to work on the computer.  I continue to contribute to the new non-profit Blue Legacy addressing issues in the Torch Lake Watershed.  I also struggle writing and posting this blog.  I spend too much time "googling" all things Maltese.  I scan the Lonely Planet guide for outings and walks to take when Andrew returns from the University each day.  He works out in the on campus gym, teaches Wednesday and Thursdays and prepares lectures and research on the other days.  We have taken many walks along the water’s edge in Valletta and the neighboring waterside towns.  With many large inlets or bays surrounding the Valletta peninsula, we have walked many kilometers of developed shoreline. 

Spinola Bay near St. Julian's

Balluta Bay

Dockyard Creek

Kalkara Creek

The Mediterranean Sea off Sliema

Our night life is more active here than in San Diego. We have dined out with University of Malta colleagues including the other Fulbright Scholar from Iowa State. We even went out to dinner with a USD colleague, Simon Croom of the Supply Chain Program.  Simon is British and has a son and grandson living here in Malta.  So, he makes frequent stops here.  We hope to connect with him in May and check on his research into leadership in business and the prevalence of mental health issues. We have also dined with our downstairs flat neighbors who are art historians from Mount Holyoke University.  Through them, we have met Ellen and Jan, who spend 6 months here and 6 months in Provence, France.  We run into Ellen and Jan on the “talk” circuit.  We enjoy hearing about their international adventures.

Andrew has linked up to a variety of Maltese agencies that organize “talks.”  We have attended primarily Malta history talks thus far.  But, Andrew has also connected us to a Gospel Singer concert and a performance by the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra.  This weekend we are joining an organized hike out to one of the southern most points of the island and an archeological dig in the northern region.  On quiet nights, we watch an episode of House of Cards-the Netflix mini-series centering on a Congressman Francis Underwood played by Kevin Spacey.  For me it is like watching the Sopranos (which we did while in Grenada), I keep trying to find a character I can like.

Sitting On the Fortress Wall at Sunset