First Impressions of Turkey

The view from my Turkish Airlines window seat.

As we flew over the northwestern corner of Turkey on approach to Istanbul’s Ataturk International Airport, I looked down on fields of various shades of green and yellow. The patchwork was like the quilts of the midwestern United States except the little white farmhouse tucked into the corner of each field was missing. On our bus trips and again in Selçuk, it became apparent that Turkey had a strategic and efficient land use plan.  River valleys with fertile soil from thousands of years of silting were dedicated to farmland and orchards-olive, orange and apricot trees. Unlike in San Diego, where our fertile San Diego River valley no longer hosts pasture lands for dairy cows, but instead is filled with condominiums and shopping malls.

Agriculture on the old river bed near Troy.

On the wooded hillsides, the Turkish forests appeared to be under efficient management. The trees were aligned, the woods were crossed with wide dirt road to be utilized as fire cuts and for harvesting.  During our travels of 350 miles by public bus, we saw only a hand full of single home dwellings.  Most buildings were 3 story duplexes or multistory, 6 or more floors, of apartments/condominiums.  All buildings were grouped closely together with little yard space, not unlike our postage stamp front yard in Mission Hills. Turkey’s population density per square mile was 237 people (the United States population density was 84 people per square mile) based on 2006 statistics.  The latest 2012 statistics for population density per square mile for California is 235 people.  So, the density of people in Turkey should be what I am used to living in California, but the housing density appeared so much thicker due to the lack of single family dwellings.   Along the Aegean Sea, we passed miles of holiday apartment buildings that were vacant and shuttered up.  July and August are the Turkish vacation months when everyone gathers to swim in the sea (unless of course you live close enough to your holiday flat and could conveniently visit on weekends.)

Summer places with solar heaters.

Turkey appeared progressive in renewable energy usage as I saw many stands of wind turbines on mountain ridges and every holiday house near the Aegean Sea had solar water heaters propped on the roof.  Solar water heaters were sold on the sidewalk along with beach balls and sodas.

Tulips

April is Tulip Month in Turkey. Tulips were originally cultivated in this region during the early Ottoman Empire days (15^th century.)  Most people would want to give that honor to Holland. The Dutch remain fond of this bulbous flower (decades ago Andrew and I were impressed by the tulips in the Keukenhof Gardens outside of Amsterdam.)  Along the 30 minute drive in from the airport and in Gulhane Park located next to Topkapi Palace, the three of us and the rest of Istanbul, were treated to colorful carpets of tulips. 

 

Everyone enjoying the tulips.

Now, I know when I landed in Malta at the end of February in the midst of Carnival season, I thought I had landed in Disneyland. And if I use the same analogy for Sultanahmet, the old city area of Istanbul, you will think I am simplistic (which I am.) But, I don’t want either country to be denounced based on my childlike fascination.  Perhaps Disneyland is not  childlike as much as it is magical.  Walt Disney’s talent was creating this magic from the excitement in new places (some representing  bygone days i.e. Adventure Land) and unfamiliar experiences.  It is this magic of exploring and experiencing lands that are foreign to mine own that draws me to make comparisons between foreign travel and the Disneyland experience.  It is a journey where we are again looking out of our inner child’s eyes, fascinated by new architecture, dress, sounds, smells and culture.

The gates to the Magical Kingdom of Sultanahmet (not really).

So to me, the area of Sultanahmet was like a Turkish Disneyland.  Walking from our hotel, along the main area, we crossed the Hippodrome.  It was a sporting center dating back to 200 AD. Chariot races are replaced with a giant pedestrian mall with decorative structures like an Egyptian obelisk erected by the emperor Theodosius the Great.  A few too many guidebook salesmen are the only ones racing up to you now.  The park between the sky puncturing Blue Mosque and the massive Ayasofya complex contains benches around a large fountain.  A street tram sounds it horn a half block away and heads down towards the Eminonu station along the Bosphorus.  Street vendors roast chestnuts and corn on the cob.  A variety of caps (Fez and Sultan-like) and fabric flower headbands are available for purchase by wandering salesman. 

Ayasofya

With our transit card, we can travel anywhere. That is if you can squeeze on board. We almost left half of Pat at the station.

Street Market.

Spice Market.

The Basilica Cistern built in the 6^th century, is a dark underground water reservoir, not unlike the subterranean  Pirates of the Caribbeanboat ride but with a mystery. Why is Medusa’s head carved on the bottom of those two columns and why are the heads are not facing upright?

The magic of this new and exotic place summoned my childlike fascination during my first days in Istanbul just as Disneyland can bring out my playfulness.  

Spooky Cistern.

Medusa  looking towards the ceiling.

 

This must be Turkey.